![]() This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. © 1982-2023 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.Ĥ. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.ģ. ![]() NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.Ģ. ![]() When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no sheddingīelow are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:ġ. Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding. See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatchĢ1) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?Īll yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another. The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. The knitting tension is very individual some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm. Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. 10-11-12 (14-16) cm.ġ) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important? Place the piece flat and sew the 10-12-12 (14-14) sts on top of foot against the 10-12-12 (14-14) sts under foot with grafting/kitchener sts. Cut the thread so that it is long enough to sew the piece tog. Work in stocking st in the round over all sts - while AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of every marker - READ DECREASE TIP: Dec every other round a total of 5-5-6 (6-7) times = 20-24-24 (28-28) sts remain on needle. 2½-2½-3 (3-4) cm remain until finished measurements), distribute sts so that there are 20-22-24 (26-28) sts both on top of foot and under foot. When sock measures 7½-8½-9 (11-12) cm from marker on heel (approx. Now work HEEL DECREASE - see explanation above! After heel decrease, slip sts from stitch holder back on needle and continue in the round over all sts again – NOTE: Work rib over the 20-24-24 (28-28) sts on top of foot and stocking st over the 20-20-24 (24-28) sts under foot. Slip the other 20-24-24 (28-28) sts (= on top of foot) on a stitch holder - rib on top of foot will now start and end with 1 P. Slip the last st that was worked on to same needle as the first 19-19-23 (23-27) sts on round = 20-20-24 (24-28) sts on needle for heel. Work rib in the round = K 2/P 2 until piece measures 7-8-9 (10-11) cm. ![]() Work like this until all heel sts have been worked.ĭec as follows 3 sts before marker: K 2 tog, K 1.ĭec as follows after marker: K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.Ĭast on 40-44-48 (52-56) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino. To avoid holes in the transitions, lift the thread before the st to be knitted up and slip it twisted on the needle. Insert a marker.Ĭontinue back and forth but now work 1 st more for every row over heel. ROW 4 (= WS): Slip first st as if to P, tighten thread and work until 2 sts remain, turn piece.Ĭontinue dec the same way until 8-8-10 (10-12) sts remain in the middle of row. ROW 3 (= RS): Slip first st as if to K, tighten thread and work until 2 sts remain, turn piece. ROW 2 (= WS): Slip first st as if to P, tighten thread and work until 1 st remains, turn piece. ROW 1 (= RS): Work until 1 st remains, turn piece.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |